How to Repair Cloudy Headlights with a Headlight Cleaner

Cloudy headlights affect hundreds of thousands of vehicles in virtually every make of car and truck, foreign or domestic. Headlight restoration is the process of cleaning the headlight lens. Save money over expensive replacements, restore them yourself, it's quick and easy. 

Follow the steps below if your Headlight lens is plastic. 

1. Mask around the headlight. 

Protect your car's finish with masking or painting tape. Don't use duct tape as it can ruin or lift the paint on your car.

2. Clean the headlight lens.

You can use sandpaper, but remember the sandpaper will leave scratches thus requiring more steps to remove these scratches. First wet the sandpaper in a bucket or cup of soapy water.

Spray the headlight with a commercial plastic lens cleaner or just soap and water. Wash the lens with a clean rag or a shop towel.

3. Remove oxidation.

Dip one finger into a plastic polish or a compound designed for plastic. With the lens still wet, apply the polish evenly over the entire headlight.

Grab a sanding sponge or a soft hand pad and take out the starting sandpaper which you decided earlier, in most cases, the 600-grit sandpaper.

Fold the sandpaper in three around the Soft Hand Pad Or Sanding Sponge.

Dip the sponge and the sandpaper into the soapy water

Sand, using a side to side motion, applying even pressure, periodically wetting the sponge and the sandpaper in the soapy water. (Avoid contacting paint and other surrounding surfaces.)

4. Sand while keeping the surface wet.

Continue the sanding process with the finer 1200 grit, then even finer 2000 grit and finally 2500 grit sandpapers to remove scratches left by the previous grit.

Apply the plastic polish/ compound after sanding with the 2500-grit sandpaper. This time, let it haze, then buff/wipe off with a shop towel.

Clean the lens with a plastic lens cleaner or soap and water. This is to remove any polish residue.

5. Apply wax to the headlight lens.

Note, this is a preview of the finished lens, if you are not satisfied up to this point you must repeat Steps 1-5 until the lens is clear.

Seal the lens with wax or silicone sealer if u notice any openings. 

Fold a shop towel into four and squeeze a quarter-sized amount of wax or polish onto it and let it soak in for a few seconds.

Apply to the lens using a single stroke going from left to right gradually working your way down the entire lens.

6. Check for clean headlights. The headlight repair is complete and you should now have clean headlights that look as good as new and restored optical clarity for safe night driving.

How to Remove Mold Odors From Inside Automobiles

Mold odor forms when moisture seeps into a surface and lingers for a certain period. This moisture often come from not drying the car well after washing. As the mold begins to grow it leaves an unpleasant musky scent that can make driving your car a very difficult task. By following these helpful tips, you can neutralize mold odors and have a fresh smelling car that is mold free.

1.  Inspect the inside and interior of the car. 
Look at the floor mats, remove the floor mats and see if there is any evidence of mold in these spots inside the car. If the floor mats are moist, place these in the dryer with a few fabric softener sheets or allow them to dry in the sun.

2.  Check underneath the seats.
Feel the carpet underneath the seats with your hand. See if the carpet feels moist. If it does, take a clean rag and blot the excess moisture. Then take a blow dryer and aim the blow dryer at this spot inside the car. Allow the hot air to dry up the moisture underneath the seat.

3. Examine the upholstery on the front seats and the back seats. 
Make sure they are mold free and are not moist when you touch them. If they are, take the hairdryer and allow the heat to dissipate the moisture on the seat.

4. Leave the car doors open on sunny days to let the car air out. 
This is a helpful tip to consider when there is too much moisture for you to get rid of on your own. The heat from the sun will warm up the inside of the car and work to evaporate some of the moisture left behind on seats, the floor and anywhere the mold smell originates.

5. Sprinkle baking soda on the spots inside the car where the moisture and mold is. 
Allow this to seep into the carpet. After an hour or 2, vacuum the excess baking soda with a portable handheld vacuum. 

6. Spray the designated areas with Febreeze. 

Spray each spot a few times and allow it to seep into the area where the mold smell is. This will help to remove mold odor from within your car. 

**While it may be tempting to spray the inside of the car with perfume or air deodorizers, this only masks odors and does nothing to neutralize or prevent odors from coming back. This is why it is essential to find the source and eliminate it.

Final part: How to Change your engine oil and oil filter

Here is the concluding part on how to Change engine oil and oil filter.

1. Add new oil to the car at the fill hole. The amount you need is in the owner's manual, usually listed under "capacities."If you hold the bottle with the spout on top, it will pour more smoothly, without bubbling. Make sure you're adding the correct oil.

Typically, you can safely use the 5w-20 and 5w-30 in Nigeria. It's a synthetic oil and they are good for all cars, especially when your car is between year 2000 - 2014. Though some believe that the extra cost isn't warranted for an old vehicle. For older cars,  you can use an oil with higher viscosity because of the year of wears that has gone into the engine. But you should consult your owner's manual or the experts at an auto shop before adding oil.

Don't always rely on the dipstick for an accurate measurement; it can be off, especially if the engine has just been run (the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries). If you want to check the stick accurately, just check it first thing in the morning, parked on a level surface, when it's cold and settled.

2. Replace the fill cap
Check around for any loose tools you might have left around and close the hood. It's a good idea to wipe up any spills as best you can.

While it's not dangerous to get a little oil on the crankcase as you're pouring, it may smoke as the engine heats up, leading to that burning oil smell that can be momentarily frightening. It can also make your interior smell bad.

3. Start the engine. 
Watch to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up. Put your car in park or neutral with the parking brake on to check for any drips and look carefully under the car to check for any leaks or drips.

If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so to get the pressure up and ensure you've installed everything correctly.

4. Reset the oil change light. 
This will differ depending upon the make and model of your car, so you should consult the owner's manual to figure out the specific set of steps.

For Honda Accord 2003-2007:
1. Turn off the engine.
2. Press and hold the SELECT/RESET button in the instrument panel. and turn the ignition switch ON (ii).
3. Hold the button for at least 10 seconds, until the indicator resets.
4. Turn the ignition off and then start the engine to verify the indicator has been reset.

For Toyota Camry 2000-2006
1. Turn the ignition to run (one position before starting engine).
2. Ensure odometer reading is shown. Turn ignition off.
3. While holding down the trip meter reset knob turn the ignition to run (one position before starting engine).
4. Hold down knob for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates "000000" and the light goes off. If the system fails to reset, the light will continue flashing. 
5. Turn the ignition off and then start the engine to verify the indicator has been reset.

If you have any questions about this topic or you which to understand some more, just drop a comment and I will reply.

I will open a trend where I will give u info on how to reset the change oil light of any car.

How to Change engine oil and oil filter in your car(part 2)

As a continuation to the Do It Yourself (DIY)  series I started yesterday on changing engine oil and oil filter, here is the second part that will explain how to change the Oil filter  while the Oil is being drained from the engine. 

1. Locate the filter assembly:

Filters are not put in a standard position, so they can be on the front, back or side of engines depending on the model.
Look at the replacement filter you purchased to have some idea of what to look for.  Typically, they're white, blue, or black cylinders about 4–6 inches (10.2–15.2 cm) long and 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide, like a soup can.

Some vehicles such as BMW, Mercedes, and newer Volvos may have a filter element or cartridge as opposed to the simpler spin-on type. They require you to open the cap of a built-in reservoir and lift out the filter element itself.

2. Unscrew the oil filter: 

Get a good grip and twist slow and steadily, counter-clockwise. The plastic coating and grease in the engine compartment often makes the filter somewhat slippery, but it shouldn't be more than hand-tight.

Use a rag or mechanics gloves with a grip to help. A filter wrench is basically a rubber belt you grip the filter with, which you could fasten from an old belt of yours or an old alternator belt you've got laying around the garage.

Make sure the pan is still under the car catching the spilling oil. There will be some trapped in the filter that will come out when you unscrew it. When removing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket ring comes off with the filter. If it sticks to the car, the new filter won't seal properly and will leak. If it does stick, peel it off with your fingers or use a screwdriver to scrape off any sticky bits.

To avoid spilling too much oil as you remove the filter, you can wrap a plastic bag around the filter, which will catch any oil that escapes as you remove it. Let it sit upside down in the bag to drain as you complete the job.

3.  Prepare the new filter: 

Dip the tip of your finger in the new replacement oil and smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. This will lubricate the gasket and create a good seal for the new filter, and ensure that you'll be able to get it off the next time.

You can also pour a tiny amount of oil into the filter prior to installing it. This will reduce the amount of time your car takes to regain proper oil pressure. If your filter is mounted vertically, you may be able to fill it almost to the top. If mounted at an angle then a little oil will spill just prior to spinning the filter on but that will not amount too much.

4. Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads:

The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it, so look to the specifications on the box for more specific instructions. In general, you'll tighten the filter until the gasket touches, then a quarter-turn more.

To be continued... 

How to Change the engine oil and oil filter in Your Car

Regularly changing your car's engine oil and filter is one of the most important things you can do to keep your car running well. Over time, your oil will break down and your filter will become clogged with contaminants.

Depending upon your driving habits and type of vehicle, this may take as few as 3 months or 4,800 km and be as long as 32,000 km or 24 months (consult your owner's manual for service intervals).

Fortunately, changing your oil is both easy and inexpensive, so I will be highlighting how you can change your engine oil and oil filter.

Due to the length,  I will be dividing the topic into three parts so that I can exclusively detail the process. 

Part One: Draining the Oil

1.  Lift your car:
Use either jacks or ramps. On a flat even surface, place the parking brake on and jack your car up, bracing it with jack stands.

Improper jack-placement can damage your car badly, so always refer to the owner's manual for the instructions for your specific car.

It's also extremely dangerous to work under a car that's still on a jack, so make sure you brace it first. If you want to use ramps to lift your car, make sure you brace the back tires with blocks.
Have someone to spot as you drive up the ramps, to make sure you don't drive off the other end.

2. Let car heat up a bit to get the oil warm:
2 or 3 minutes of idling should be sufficient to get the oil warmed up a bit so it will drain more quickly. Solid particles of dirt and grime are caught in the oil and tend to settle to the bottom when the oil is cold. Letting it run ensures you're getting the crankcase cleaned out thoroughly.

While the car idles, assemble the necessary tools. You'll need your new oil, a new filter, a pan and newspaper to catch the draining oil, and probably a socket wrench and a flashlight. Consult your owner's manual to determine the type of oil and filter you'll need.

3. Remove the oil cap:  
Open the hood(bonnet) and locate the oil cap on top of the engine. This is where you'll add oil after you're done draining the old oil. Doing this will help the oil drain more easily because air can flow in as the crankcase empties.

4. Find the oil pan:
Under your car, look for a flat metal pan closer to the engine than the transmission. It should have a bolt or plug toward the bottom. This is the oil plug you'll need to remove to let the oil drain.
Directly under the plug, place your pan and a couple of newspapers for catching the oil.

N. B If you can't distinguish the oil pan from the transmission pan, let the car run for five or ten minutes. The oil plug should get warm to the touch by that time, while the transmission won't.

5. Remove the oil plug:
Loosen the plug counter-clockwise using the proper sized socket or crescent wrench if you've got room to maneuver.

You should also remove and replace the circular paper (or felt) drain plug gasket, but a metal washer can be re-used if in good condition.

The oil will come out of the pan as soon as you do this, and it will come at a slight angle, so it can be tricky to catch. Once you've loosened the plug with your wrench, remove it the rest of the way with your hand.

Make sure you've got your big catch-pan and newspapers placed before you remove the plug. Also be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff. If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily get a magnet to find it.

Another easy way to "save" the drain plug is to use a funnel with a bit of screening in it. Catch the plug as it falls out. You can then pull the funnel out of the way of the stream and set it to one side.

You'll probably get oil on your hands and clothes at some point during this process. Putting down newspaper is a smart precaution, or else you'll have big oil stain on the floor.

6. Wait:
It will take several minutes for all the oil to drain out of the car. When the oil has ceasing running out of the crankcase, replace the plug.

Hand tighten to make sure you're not cross-threading the oil plug when you screw it back in, and tighten the rest of the way with your wrench. Don't forget to install a replacement gasket or washer.

While you're poking around under the car, though, take a minute to locate the blue or white-colored cylinder that is the oil filter. You'll need to replace this next.

To be continued..

On-board diagnostics (OBD)

On-board diagnostics (OBD) is an automotive term referring to a vehicle's self-diagnostic and reporting capability.

OBD systems give the vehicle owner or repair technician access to the status of the various vehicle subsystems. The amount of diagnostic information available via OBD has varied widely since its introduction in the early 1980s versions of on-board vehicle computers. Early versions of OBD would simply show there is a problem but won't give any info. 

Modern OBD implementations use a standardized digital communications port to provide real-time data in addition to a standardized series of diagnostic trouble codes , or DTCs, which allow one to rapidly identify and remedy malfunctions within the vehicle.

Through the years on-board diagnostic systems have become more sophisticated. OBD-II, a new standard introduced in the mid-'90s, provides almost complete engine control and also monitors parts of the chassis, body and accessory devices, as well as the diagnostic control network of the car. 

OBD-II signals are most often sought in response to a "Check Engine Light" appearing on the dashboard or driveability problems experienced with the vehicle. The data provided by OBD-II can often pinpoint the specific component that has malfunctioned, saving substantial time and cost compared to guess-and-replace repairs.

Scanning OBD-II signals can also provide valuable information on the condition of a used car purchase.

OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes are 4-digit, preceded by a letter:
P for engine and transmission (powertrain)
B for body
C for chassis
U for network.

OBD-II connector is required to be within 2 feet (0.61 m) of the steering wheel (unless an exemption is applied for by the manufacturer, in which case it is still somewhere within reach of the driver).

Below are few of DTCs that can be found

P00xx – Fuel and air metering and auxiliary emission controls.

P01xx – Fuel and air metering.

P02xx – Fuel and air metering (injector circuit).

P03xx – Ignition system or misfire.

P04xx – Auxiliary emissions controls.

P05xx – Vehicle speed controls and idle control system.

P06xx – Computer output circuit.

P07xx – Transmission.

P08xx – Transmission.

The following two characters would refer to the individual fault within each subsystem.

This DTCs can be read the help of a scanning tool which can be purchased either online or automotive shops.
They can be:

1. Professional hand held device: Professional hand-held scan tools possess more advanced functions, it access more advanced diagnostics, Set manufacturer- or vehicle-specific EU parameters, access and control other control units, such as air bag or ABS and Real-time monitoring or graphing of engine parameters to facilitate diagnosis or tuning.

2. Mobile device-based tool and analysis: Mobile device applications allow mobile devices such as cell phones and tablets to display and manipulate the OBD-II data accessed via USB adaptor cables, bluetooth (ELM connectors) or WiFi adapters plugged into the car's OBD II connector. An additional software is required to be installed on the mobile device for decoding the received data.

3. PC-bases scan tool and analysis platform:
A PC-based OBD analysis tool that converts the OBD-II signals to serial data (USB or serial port) standard to PCs or Macs. The software then decodes the received data to a visual display. Many popular interfaces are based on the ELM or STN1110 OBD Interpreter ICs, both of which read all five generic OBD-II protocols.

 

I will advice all car owners to own the mobile based device and the full version software so that u can perform scan on your car for faults whenever u notice and problem instead of the trial by error done by mechanics. 

I purchased my device from China and bought the full version app on Google play. 

Below is an image of the scan tool software from my Android device. 

Photo credit: Google images 

Reference: Wikipedia 

Lighten up your key chain

Does your car key share a chain with a dozen or more other keys?

That’s a pretty heavy load hanging off the car key when it’s in the ignition. The weight, combined with bouncing while you drive, can wear out the tumblers inside the ignition and eventually lead to ignition switch failure.

To add years of service to your ignition switch, purchase a lightweight key chain that allows you to separate your ignition key from the others.

Drive with only the ignition key in your ignition. If your ignition key “sticks” when you try to turn on the car, it’s a warning that your ignition switch is about to fail. Replace it before you get stranded.

How to preserve your car during long-term storage

If you are not going to use your car for more than a month, it is paramount that you store it properly to prevent unnecessary damage and repairs upon your return.

The following should be done to prevent the car from any form of damage.

Fill the gas tank to help prevent condensation from accumulating in the gas tank. Add a fuel stabilizer and drive the car around a bit to distribute the additive to engine parts.

Wash and wax the car thoroughly to protect the finish.

Place a vapor barrier on your garage floor. A 4-mil polyethylene drop cloth will do.

Disengage the parking brake to help avoid brake corrosion.

Put the car on jack stands to take the weight of the vehicle off the wheels and tires.

Disconnect and remove the battery to keep it from draining. Place the battery on a trickletype charger. Or periodically drain the battery, using a small light bulb, and then recharge it with a low-volt charger.

Plug the tailpipe with a rag to prevent moist air from infiltrating into it.

Protect your health and car interior with car shades

It's a beautiful sunny afternoon and it's the best time to share this lovely information. This will be on protecting your car interior from sunlight damage.

Of course, a garage is always the ideal place to park your car.
But if one isn’t available, maybe when you are out of the house, minimize interior damage from UV sunlight and heat by always trying to park your car in the shade.

If no shade is available or if you find parking under a tree results in bird droppings, use a car shade to minimize the sun’s impact. As a bonus, you’ll have a cooler car to step into on hot sunny days.

Car shades come in two basic types: those that you unfold and place on the front windshield and rear window, or pleated types that attach to the windshield posts (with adhesive), window frames (with Velcro), or the windows themselves (with suction cups).

Solid fabric and slat car blinds have given way to cheaper and more flexible, folding wire-framed "dark-stocking" synthetic blinds. These are used where the car owner has not dark-tinted the glass of the car windows enough. or during the day, wishing to have more privacy.

Dark-tinted glass also protect the interior  of your car but be sure that you have the required documents so as to prevent you from constant harassment by the police. 

If somehow you parked your car without shades and it's under direct sunlight, make sure u wind the glass down for about 40sec before sitting in the car and also if you are to on the AC, wind the glass down for 30sec when the AC is on,  so that the heat can come out. 

Sitting directly inside a heated car is very dangerous to the health as the UV rays coming through the windshield reacts with the dashboard to release benzene which is known to be a hazardous.

Also, do not drink bottled water left in the car under direct sunlight. Many disposable plastic water bottles contain a chemical known as bisphenol-A or BPA for short.

This chemical has been proven to reduce sperm count and increase the risk of breast cancer. When plastic is heated, it releases its chemical composition into the water thereby making it hazardous to your health.