As a continuation to the Do It Yourself (DIY) series I started yesterday on changing engine oil and oil filter, here is the second part that will explain how to change the Oil filter while the Oil is being drained from the engine.
1. Locate the filter assembly:
Filters are not put in a standard position, so they can be on the front, back or side of engines depending on the model.
Look at the replacement filter you purchased to have some idea of what to look for. Typically, they're white, blue, or black cylinders about 4–6 inches (10.2–15.2 cm) long and 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide, like a soup can.
Some vehicles such as BMW, Mercedes, and newer Volvos may have a filter element or cartridge as opposed to the simpler spin-on type. They require you to open the cap of a built-in reservoir and lift out the filter element itself.
2. Unscrew the oil filter:
Get a good grip and twist slow and steadily, counter-clockwise. The plastic coating and grease in the engine compartment often makes the filter somewhat slippery, but it shouldn't be more than hand-tight.
Use a rag or mechanics gloves with a grip to help. A filter wrench is basically a rubber belt you grip the filter with, which you could fasten from an old belt of yours or an old alternator belt you've got laying around the garage.
Make sure the pan is still under the car catching the spilling oil. There will be some trapped in the filter that will come out when you unscrew it. When removing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket ring comes off with the filter. If it sticks to the car, the new filter won't seal properly and will leak. If it does stick, peel it off with your fingers or use a screwdriver to scrape off any sticky bits.
To avoid spilling too much oil as you remove the filter, you can wrap a plastic bag around the filter, which will catch any oil that escapes as you remove it. Let it sit upside down in the bag to drain as you complete the job.
3. Prepare the new filter:
Dip the tip of your finger in the new replacement oil and smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. This will lubricate the gasket and create a good seal for the new filter, and ensure that you'll be able to get it off the next time.
You can also pour a tiny amount of oil into the filter prior to installing it. This will reduce the amount of time your car takes to regain proper oil pressure. If your filter is mounted vertically, you may be able to fill it almost to the top. If mounted at an angle then a little oil will spill just prior to spinning the filter on but that will not amount too much.
4. Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads:
The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it, so look to the specifications on the box for more specific instructions. In general, you'll tighten the filter until the gasket touches, then a quarter-turn more.
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